Calakmul

The Peten Basin is a hot, steamy, mosquito-infested jungle, but it hides some of the world's true wonders. The Mayan ruins of Calakmul are among them. Set in the jungle about 35 km from the Guatemala border, Calakmul was one of the great Mayan cities of the Classic Period (250-900 AD) with a population at that time of up to 50,000 people and a major rival and at times ally of Tikal. One structure towers over the jungle at 45 m high. Truly amazing. Truly hot. I sweated more climbing that pyramid than maybe ever.

Spent the night at a campground nearby in the jungle. What a miserable night. Fan was not working since the batteries were dying. I laid there sweating and scratching and trying to kill that last mosquito that had gotten into the tent. The jungle at night with no moon is incredibly dark. At four in the morning, I was awoken by a couple of very load, long, low growls. What the hell is that? I thought it might be two jaguars facing off. Someone told me in the morning that it was a couple of howler monkeys. Still, an amazing experience.

Woke up and intended to drive to Chetamul, but headed towards Tulum instead. After a couple miserable nights sweating in the Jeep tent and itching like crazy from the mosquitos, hungry and dehydrated, I arrived in Tulum and got a hotel for the night. What a pleasant luxury!

The Yucatan peninsula is undergoing major developement. They are building a rail line that circles the peninsula. Tulum is a mess of building new roads in the city. I've been told that building the railroad is causing a lot of environmental damage. And it will bring so many more people to the Yucatan. I am so glad I got to see Calakmul before it turns into another Chichen Itza. Hardly any people when I was there, but major construction on the road in. Looks like they are building a spur line to it.

Shout out to Steve and Tobi at Playa Montes. They are from Engand and helping the owner, a Canadian named Sean, with caretaking at the campground. They have been on the road for the last three years, but have found their little piece of paradise at Playa Montes. They shared their stories including taking care of the turtles while they are nesting on the beach, gave me lots of good advice, and Steve riveted my license plates on so that nobody would steal them.